Wednesday, June 28, 2023

Our final Shetland area explored - the southern tip

The last part of our trip to Shetland was in the south, visiting Sumburgh Head, it's lighthouse and museum as well as the ancient ruins at Jarsholf nearby.


In order to get to Sumburgh Head we first had to cross the airport! The barriers come down on the runway like a level crossing while the plane takes off or lands. This is the only airport in the UK that has a road across the runway!



The ruins at Jarshof were impressive, covering various stages of settlements in Shetland history from the Neolithic period around 2700 BC, through the Vikings to the 1600s. The weather had turned to more what we expected from Shetland! A bit of misty drizzle appeared and we had to get togged up in our waterproofs. If didn't last long though. 




We had a walk to Sumburgh Head and the lighthouse there, which was an interesting day as the lighthouse has a sealife museum and some really intriguing history about the lighthouse keepers that were stationed here over the years. More Puffins too which is always a cheery sight to see! Orcas are often seen from here but no luck today for us!


I hope the fog horn doesn't go off!

It's a dogs life! Purdy nearly asleep!

Dee measuring up to the height of Busta the Orca's dorsal fin

Despite looking out to sea all the time,
this is the only Orca that we have seen so far!

A nice room with a view!

We treated ourselves to a 3 course meal at the Sumburgh Head Hotel - a meal out is VERY hard to come by in Shetland - there are no pubs, hardly any restaurants and what there is never seems to be open! It was lovely! - mmmmmm! We both had local haddock, mash and veg for main.


We stayed overnight in a small carpark in the sand dunes next to Spiggie Beach, complete with seals hauled up overnight.  We went for a swim in the morning, it still looked inviting in the cloudy weather so in we went! The seals from the night before had gone, or so we thought - one popped its head up right next to us while we were in!



Drying swim gear in the mist later elsewhere
  - there is a beach in the background!
It may not look it, but it was warm enough!

A new hat and headband to remember Shetland by

Our last trip on Shetland was a late evening boat trip to see the Storm Petrels nesting and rousting in an old Broch (tower like building) on the island of Mousa. We boarded a small boat at 2230 in thick mist that added to the atmosphere. After a short cruise we were greeted by ‘Mousa Man’ made from old plastic floats washed up on the beach!


The Broch was really impressive and very well preserved, probably because of its remoteness so that people haven’t plundered it for building stones over the years like many of the others. It's 13 metres high and like all Broch’s double skinned. There was a sketchy ‘staircase’ winding it's way to the top in the gap with a low hand rail – and more like a knee rail at the top. We were welcome to climb to the top - in pitch black on tiny little stone steps that you couldn't see. We like Shetland's lack of health and safety! These pics show how light it is up here - it gets no darker than this at the moment - and this was a night which was misty.

The Storm Petrels roust and nest in gaps in the stones and there were hundreds, like bats swarming around until they find the exact spot they need to enter. They make an amazing noise - we thought it was like a cross between a dialling tone on an old phone and a geiger counter!


The video clip below is the sound of the Storm Petrels.

We returned at about 0200 but luckily were able to camp for the night right at the small harbour. The next day, after a cuppa, and a walk to another Broch ruin, we returned to Lerwick to look around their impressive museum. 


Our legs were really tired so these were ideal in the museum!
How old are we?!!

Cafes in Shetland are virtually non-existent so it would be a luxury to get some lunch before we left Lerwick and Shetland. However, we found on Mondays most shops and cafes were closed but two cafes were open. One had a table free but this was reserved ‘just in case a family came in’ and the other a very greasy spoon with a very uninviting window dressing....

After contemplating whether to go in and eventually decided to a bit later, we found that they had decided to close early so that luxury was out again!

Some pics of Lerwick harbour on a bit of a drab day before we left.







2 comments:

  1. As restaurants and pubs are hard to come by, what's the situation with supermarkets? Are you managing to buy a reasonable selection of groceries?

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  2. We are doing okay getting food - in the main town on Shetland - Lerwick - there was a big Tesco so we could stock up there and top up in village shops. These village shops sell everything - hardware stuff, post office, food - the basics, local stuff etc. In Orkney it is similar - Tesco, Lidl and Co-op in the main town of Kirkwall and over here is the small town of Stromness there is a decent Co-op. There have been times on the smaller islands where we have had to just have what the village shop offered but all in all it hasn't been too bad. Plenty of cake everywhere, oh dear!

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