Wednesday, August 16, 2023

Stromness area and island life

The Ness Battery near to our campsite in Stromness was an important gun emplacement for both world wars. We stumbled across a tour just about to start and joined in. Inside one of the original Second World War wooden billet huts was some great painting all around the inside by one of the soldiers - trying to make it look more like home!

This was the serving hatch from the kitchen


Phil had a side trip back to Hoy via the passenger ferry for an overnight expedition, a circular hike up the Cuilags, St John Head, The Old Man of Hoy and Rackwick for the night before returning via the valley in the morning for the ferry back to Stromness. 


It looks an idyllic spot to camp below but he had to share it with quite a few midges as the weather was so still - going to bed early with a neck scarf over his head and a very sharp exit in the morning! Dee and Purdy had a much more relaxing time in Muy!

We have really enjoyed our time in Stromness a lovely old town with an interesting history.

This is the main street

Before we left Orkney we wanted to sample some more islands so we spent a day on Shapinsay and then took a round trip to Stronsay, Eday and Sanday.

Burroughston Broch, Shapinsay

Stromsay was a bit of a disappointment really, nowhere to wild camp apart from the Community Centre, which was where we stayed. Nice but no walks nearby and other walks difficult underfoot. There was a nice cafe though by the port for breakfast before we left!

Community Centre Wild Camp

Walk to the Vat of Kerbister and Lamb Head

We decided to leave Stronsay early after only two nights and head to Eday. It proved a very good move as when we arrived at the hostel it had a lovely feel. We could see the sea on both sides with Short Eared Owls and Hen Harriers often seen and even a Basking Shark - and we had the place to ourselves - a bit of a hidden gem really! A lot of the island is covered in Heather, which had started to flower.

The Stone of Setter - looks like we were expected!

Nearly as tall as the Stones of Stenness

Vinquoy Chambered Cairn

A tight squeeze!

A bit of sunbathing

Lovely beaches 

Mill Bay

Ward Hill - the highest point on Eday

An old kissing gate in the middle of the moor!

No-one goes to Eday and the locals from the other islands have a bit of a dim view of it. Nothing there, full of weird incomers etc....we loved it there and stayed 5 nights.
From Eday we took a very short ferry to Sanday. As the name suggests, it is well known for its sandy beaches. We stayed at Ayres Rock campsite overlooking the sea on the west coast and our first night was very windy - we didn't get much sleep.

View from campsite on a calm day

Truck and Muy enjoying some off road

Its that Caribbean feeling again - until we touch the water!

Sadly in 1994 eleven male Sperm Whales beached themselves on Backaskaill beach with the average weighing 30 tonnes - unfortunately none could be saved. Recently a life sized sculpture was erected in memory of that tragic day.

Backaskaill Beach

There was even a pizza cafe - what a luxury, eating out!


Sanday has its own Chambered Cairn, fairly recently rebuilt so in very good condition - for 5000 years old!


Another tight squeeze - for about 9 metres
on our hands and knees to get in!

Caves at Doun Helzie




High alert - so many rabbits!

We tried to reach the lighthouse on the small island at Star Point but even at low tide we couldn't get across. The next day we did manage to get to the Holms of Ire, two small islands again at low tide. We had to be careful not to get marooned though when the tide came back in!


We waited for the tide to go down

A washed up pallet helped - we took it back afterwards!

Relaxing on the first island before venturing on to the second

View through her ears!

The cairn at the furthest point

A plant fossil on a stone that Dee found

Another lovely swim at Saville beach before we left. This was our favourite beach on Sanday.

Saville Beach

Sunset near campsite

Sanday has a lovely, relaxed feeling to it - and with plenty of nice walks, great places for picnics and beautiful beaches to swim off, we really enjoyed our week there. We left Sanday and returned to the 'mainland' for the last part of our Orkney adventure before we will be heading to the Outer Hebrides.