The Landbridge to Shetland

We had booked a 'landbridge' ferry ticket to Shetland - this is a combined ticket for the short ferry from Scrabster on the mainland to Stromness in Orkney (2 hours), then you drive across to Kirkwall in Orkney where you get a different overnight ferry to Lerwick in Shetland (7 hours). 

It was a beautiful evening on the flat sea to Orkney which surprised us - we were expecting choppy seas! Purdy had a ticket for the dog lounge so we could sit indoors or be out on deck. On the second leg, we had a dog friendly cabin and went straight to bed as we didn't board until about 2330. We had a cup of tea onboard in the morning before disembarking.

The Old Man of Hoy on route to Stromness

We arrived in Lerwick on a lovely, still cloudless morning! After an early lunch in a church (a random find) we headed to Skeld where we were going to be based at a marina/campsite for a while.

Demounting Muy at Skeld

A few people mentioned there was a Gala on at nearby Aith so we headed over. We met loads of locals who were all really chatty and friendly - and didn't mind us quizzing them on life in Shetland. Apparently the weather was the best they ever get - and BBQs were all planned to make the most of it. It surprised us how warm it is - the sun is hot but the wind cools it down. So on days where there is no wind, it is really pleasant. We thought it would be all gale forced wind with rough seas! We have had no wind and flat seas so far!

Local Viking group

A pie eating competition - why not! Phil 
managed to blag a leftover!

The local lifeboat is a Type Severn
and it was access all areas for the day

A pair of powerful MTU V10 engines.

So far Shetland is treating us well - hardly any rain and very friendly people. It doesn't feel remotely Scottish or British here - just as a different country. The accent and words used are completely different and really interesting to listen to. 

Not many trees, although there are some surprising plantations dotted around and in people's gardens. There are dramatic cliffs, beautiful beaches and tons of sheep!

Coigach and the Summer Isles

We had another flat ferry crossing back to Oban on the mainland from Mull. It was late so we found a lovely carpark beside a church - it was listed on the local Council website as a camper overnight park up spot. The church is a really interesting building but we noticed it had a sold sign up and was no longer having services, so it will probably end up as a home for someone.

We were serenaded by a very vocal Song Thrush in the beech tree beside us late into the night and early again the next morning. We never knew they sang so much - we don't really have them much in our garden at home. 

We then drove up beside Loch Ness to stay in Beauly for the night. Did we mention it was hot again?! We enjoyed a local beer with some food outside while Purdy enjoyed some sunbathing.

We continued north west to the Coigach peninsula and arrived at a campsite overlooking the Summer Isles at Port a Beigh. Its quite remote down a long single track road, through some amazing mountain scenery. The area is within a Geopark, which is very interesting if you like geology :)

We had a lovely pitch overlooking the beach, although this also meant that we were very exposed during a couple of very windy days and nights (Dee thought we might tip over!). 

On our first day we hiked up Stac Pollaigh (Polly) - one of the mountains nearby. The weather was ideal - not much wind and not too cold or too hot (sunny days hiking makes Purdy flag)! The last part was quite rocky for Purdy so we took it in turns to reach the top.

This is Stac Pollaigh

This was the base camp while the other
person went up the summit

Stac Pollaigh near the summit

The area is very well-known for its geology and there are various interesting sites in the North West Highland Geopark. We visited one at Knockan Crag where the upper level of rocks are older than the ones underneath, as the Moine Thrust Belt pushed the bottom rocks to the top during a collision.

Knockan Crag

Phil had an evening hike behind the campsite to a couple of small peaks (Meall an Fheadain and Meall Chaisteil) with good views over to the Summer Isles, while Purdy and Dee had some girls time!

View of Summer Isles in the distance

We went on a lovely circular hike nearby with a picnic for the day. It started at Achvraie, via Achduart and Culnacraig before finishing with another swim on a lovely sandy beach!

Purdy flaked out again!

After 4 nights we left Port a Beigh and drove north for a night at Scourie, overlooking the bay. It's right on the NC500 (a very popular driving route) so busy but also a lovely location. We had a pitch up out of the way and enjoyed another lovely, sunny evening.

From Scourie we continued north 'over the top' (very busy) with a brief stop at Smoo Cave (where we met a group of Dutch bikers) and a lovely wild camp before we arrived at Wick, where we would stay our last night on the mainland before our ferry to Shetland.

A boat trip in the cave with some mad Dutch bikers!

A quick stop for a photo at John o'Groats and Dunnets Head.

The sign showing our next stops - 8m and 152m!

We loved the Isle of Mull

On our second attempt we reached the Isle of Mull and what a gem of a place it turned our to be! We took the ferry from Oban to Craignure on another calm day.

Purdy checking out the ferry

Muy chased on board by a digger

Dee checking some lifting gear!

We drove down a very narrow road to Loch Bui that was recommended to us by two different people. Its quite a remote place but does have a small cafe. However, when we arrived we found a mobile pizza van was warming up its oven - what a result! We ordered, went for a walk and came back to a lovely pizza!

Moy Castle, Loch Bui

Tobermory, the main town on Mull, is known for its colourful houses along the bay. It was very picturesque and we enjoyed mooching around the town and yet another cup of tea and scone. We never knew scones were a thing in Scotland!

We had a chat with the captain of the Blue Clipper
and learnt it is no where near as old as it looks

We watched all the rich cruisers being ferried to the
pontoon - the cruise liner was the Seabourn Venture
which costs a fortune to go on!

Standing stones at Glengorm Castle (hotel)
with a lovely cafe nearby - our best lunch yet!

Mull is quite a wild island with mostly single track roads and loads of wildlife so its great demounting Muy and having the truck to explore this rugged island.

We took a short ferry to the religious island of Iona. A beautiful island where we explored the Abbey and went for another swim in what looked like the Caribbean, until we felt the water temperature of course - very cold, but fun! We dried off sitting on the warm rock and watching some Gannets spear the water in front of us in search of a meal.

Purdy sunbathing

Iona Abbey 

Celtic cross at the abbey

We heard the Corncrake at this hotel
while we had tea and scones - again!

Back on Mull we spent our time on some more lovely walks before we had to leave and go back to the mainland.