The Outer Hebrides - Barra and Vatersay

A short ferry journey took us from Eriskay to Barra. It's a small island with another smaller island, Vatersay, connected by a causeway at the south. We stayed at Scurrival campsite on the north recommended by a few people we had met - a very good choice it was. 

The view from our pitch - above and below

We demounted again so we could explore in the truck. Barra is famous as it has the only airport in the UK where planes land on the beach - the beach is the airport!

This was the beach in front of our campsite

Kisimul Castle, Castlebay

At the southern tip of Barra a causeway took us to Vatersay, the furthest south we would be going in the Outer Hebrides.

A lovely swimming beach at Vatersay

A nice view from a walk just south of the campsite.

The cows on Vatersay like it on the beach - eating seaweed! We were told that the Royal Yacht Britannia moored off a secluded beach near here so the kids could be taken ashore to play on the beach.

Weather not up to our usual standard!

Vehicles here don't need an mot unless they travel to the mainland but they do need insurance and tax. There used to be a vehicle crusher on the island every so often but this was stopped, probably when the price of scrap fell - leading to more vehicles just being abandoned. We have seen this everywhere on all islands.

We have found abandoned cars in all sorts of places!

Whipping up a storm on the west coast

We have enjoyed Barra and Vatersay, especially due to Scurrival campsite with its lovely location and generous host - Angus. He even brought us free range eggs (including a doubler he delivered especially after we were talking about them) and freshly dug potatoes - no charge, just happy to help.

Dee peeling the spuds!

However, we both found the Uists our favourite of The Outer Herbrides with Barra and Vatersay a close second.

One last swim in the calm before the storm!

We spent our last night adjusting our position (we were mounted up) on the edge of a storm force anti cyclone trying to keep head on into the wind - gusting to about 65mph - in our very exposed location! Gale force goes up to about 46mph on the Beaufort Scale and is Force 8. 65mph put us in Violent Storm Force 11 - Hurricane is Force 12! 

In the end we put all 4 x legs down to try to stabilise us and had very little sleep. Various ferries were cancelled but luckily our short journey back to Eriskay and South Uist early the next morning was on because the wind, although still very strong, had changed to a better direction for docking.

We were in that middle purple bit!

We returned to South Uist for a night back at Kilbride campsite before heading north for another walk in the mountains before we left. This is the view from a hill behind the campsite at sunset.

We travelled back to Lochskipport for another walk in the foot hills of Hecla - turned out to be very boggy and also shared by a few midges on a windless day!

Our last night on Uist was a cracker - a wild camp beside an MOD firing range, beside the sea and all by ourselves and with local farmer's permission. We watched Hen Harriers hunting nearby and enjoyed a sunny afternoon.

The range has been used for firing Cruise missiles

A very woolly sheep!

Driving out through the range the next morning

A very calm and sunny ferry crossing from Lochboisdale in South Uist to Mallaig (our 38th ferry I think) and the mainland :(

We did see loads of Dolphins and a Minke Whale but all at distance.

The Outer Hebrides - The Uists, Benbecula and Eriskay

For some reason when we arrived in North Uist it felt better than Lewis and Harris although the weather was still bad! We based ourselves at a campsite on the west coast adjacent to the Balranald RSPB bird reserve and demounted Muy. Dee went on a guided walk from the RSPB site and learnt a lot about how crofting works on the Hebrides as well as about the wildlife.

Another calm crossing 

We visited another chambered cairn, Barpa Langass, but part of the roof had caved in so unfortunately we couldn't get inside. It looks like a heap of stones but it was there well before the peat and the heather and is about 5000 years old!

Pobull Fhinn stone circle

Delicious local smoked Salmon -
we made the most of numerous packs of this

We found ourselves at the sheep auction

 at Lochmaddy

We visited another Broch but this time with the aid of virtual reality we were able to see what it probably would have looked like - with Purdy in front! It was quite impressive technology.

This is real life

With the aid of VR

Miss P scanning her surroundings

Here we enjoyed some lovey walks around the bird reserve and also the Udal peninsular nearby.

Harvest moon

A 'Wheelhouse' ruin

We often come across abandoned vehicles - there is a scrap
collection scheme on most islands but it doesn't seem to happen!

A brilliant view of a Short Eared Owl from the
truck - we watched him hunting and they are a
beautiful bird.

We moved south through Benbecula (not much to see really) to South Uist and Eriskay. It immediately felt friendlier down in the south - locals putting their hand up when passing on the road etc. Strange how different some places can be. We stayed at the south overlooking the sea beside a cafe - result for Phil as he could have a cooked breakfast!

Friendly ponies grazing on another reserve

There are some beautiful hikes in remote hills
and mountains - no-one at all around

Eriskay, at the very bottom of South Uist, connected by a causeway. It was a lovely place with a nice walk and a perfect beach for a swim. Eriskay is famous for a freight ship called the SS Politician running aground and sinking. The ship was carrying 22000 cases of whisky which the locals extracted from the wreck or collected on the shore washed up (some were imprisoned when they got found out by customs and excise). There is a film called Whisky Galore which is based around this event and was filmed on Barra. We treated ourselves to a pub meal in the Am Politician which overlooks where the ship sank.  

Purdy chilling - Barra in the distance

Eriskay looking north over the causeway to South Uist

Surveying for a swim!

Ready! The tide was fairly out but the
sea was just about deep enough

I think it gets windy here!

While exploring in the truck, we stumbled across a boat trip and was able to join in on the spot. We saw White Tailed Eagle, Golden Eagle and plenty of Dolphins. Such an enjoyable trip as the sea was flat calm and the weather was sunny and warm.

Typical old thatched house with stone weights

There is even the odd wood!

From here we move further south to Barra and Vatersay for the last part of our Outer Hebrides adventure. We have heard a lot of good vibes about Barra from people travelling north so we will wait and see.